1850

FASHION DURING THE 1850s

During the early 1850s, the long torso trend from the late 1840s was still fashionable, achieved with constricting corsets. However, by 1853 the natural position of the waistline came back and the enthusiasm towards tight-lacing decreased. Daytime dresses were characterized by high necklines and straight or curved waistlines, often accompanied by a wide white collar to complete the look. In spite of this, lower necklines which allowed the shoulders to show were the choice in hotter weather, along with short sleeves.

What is known as the V-shaped “bretelles” became a common bodice decoration at the time, which spread from the center waist to the arms to create the effect of dropped shoulders. In addition, the narrow fitted sleeve of the 1840 suffered a radical transformation, as in the 1850s the sleeves became wide and open, expanding from either the shoulder or the elbow. These “pagoda” sleeves were usually seen with white undersleeves called “engageantes”. Towards the end of the decade, the pagoda sleeve was frequently seen with bows and fringed epaulettes.

Nevertheless, the most important characteristic of 1850s womenswear was its voluminous skirts and how they were achieved. Multiple petticoats were used to support the large skirt and at least one of them would be a crinoline, which was stiffened with horsehair. In 1856, a special construction was developed to help the skirt stay in shape evenly and avoid floppiness: the cage crinoline. This device consisted of a series of concentric steel hoops and allowed skirts to reach new proportions among all levels of society, as it was relatively affordable.