FASHION DURING THE 1860s
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1860s Crinoline |
The cage crinoline or hoop skirt, which first appeared in the late
1850s and was made up of a row of concentric steel hoops connected by vertical
bands of tape or braid, helped to define the silhouette of the 1860s. Cage
crinolines permitted skirts to reach their widest circumference circa 1860,
eliminating the need for many heavy petticoats to attain the fashionable broad
skirts. As women's skirts occupied more and more space on sidewalks, benches,
and hallways, hoops became a widely popular fashion item that was frequently
the target of heavy criticism. The shape of the cage crinoline gradually
evolved throughout the course of the decade, changing its silhouette. The shape
was characterized for being enormous, frequently measuring twelve to fifteen
feet in circumference and shaped like a dome. The cage started to swing
backwards around 1862, eventually taking on a pyramidal shape that served as
its silhouette for most of the next ten years. The front had become flat by
1868, and the back possessed most of the volume.
Apart from the crinolines, women's clothing also featured a
floor-skimming broad skirt, a fitted bodice, and a selection of sleeve designs.
Since the hips didn't need to be restrained, corsets were shorter and usually
were not tight-laced, it was the sheerness of the skirts during this time
period that made waists appear little in comparison. The 1860s saw a shift in
the placement of the waistline, producing a short-waisted appearance that
carried over into the bustle silhouette of the 1870s. Around 1865, it also
became popular, especially in strolling dresses or outfits worn for sports, to
draw up the topmost layer of the skirt to reveal the underskirt or petticoat
beneath.
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1860s Muslim cotton dress |
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1860s Day dress |
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